Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on